Cosmeticorexia: How Girls Are Falling Into a Skincare Rabbit Hole

Cosmeticorexia – Ellie-May, now 13, began her journey into the world of skincare as an 8-year-old. Her TikTok videos, which show her preparing for the day with a meticulous routine, have amassed over 330,000 followers. In one clip, she energetically declares, “Get ready with me to go to my best friend’s house,” before enthusiastically applying a translucent toner. The sequence continues with a glowing serum, a “smoothie” made from a fluffy yellow cream, and a tinted moisturiser. Her hands move with precision as she dabs concealer under her eyes, adds pink blush, and highlights her cheeks. After curling her lashes and applying mascara, she finishes with lip gloss. “I’m ready,” she says, just before blow-drying and straightening her hair. What started as a playful hobby has evolved into a significant income stream for her family.

Ellie-May’s family, which includes five other children, now generates over £50,000 annually through their social media presence. They maintain accounts on Facebook, TikTok, YouTube, and Snapchat, showcasing Ellie-May’s content alongside their own. Her mother, Sophie, shared during a video call that their transformation began during lockdown. “So many other young kids just wanted to know about Ellie’s skincare routine, and it just took off,” she explained. This phenomenon reflects a growing trend where children as young as three or four are captivated by beauty products and routines. Searches for terms like “children and skincare” reveal hundreds of videos featuring young girls discussing their daily plans while applying makeup, often with a focus on achieving a perfect complexion.

“Being content creators has transformed our lives,” Sophie said. “It’s not just about skincare anymore—it’s about creating a brand and connecting with people who share our interests.”

The Business Behind the Beauty

The skincare market has expanded rapidly, with products now targeting younger audiences. While past generations focused on spot-free skin through basic cleansers and scrubs, today’s children are using a wider range of sophisticated items. These often include anti-ageing ingredients, marketed as essential for flawless skin. Some influencers, like Ellie-May, describe themselves as “brand ambassadors,” promoting lines such as Bubble, Drunk Elephant, and P. Louise. Brands are also releasing themed packs, like K-Pop Demon Hunters-inspired collections, to cater to this niche. Though some products are explicitly for children, others avoid direct association, instead casting a broader net.

A representative from Drunk Elephant noted that the brand is not strictly youth-focused, emphasizing its role in educating customers on responsible use. However, Bubble and P. Louise have not commented on their involvement with young influencers. This underscores the complexity of the industry, where brands balance accessibility with the image of maturity. For many girls, skincare has become a daily ritual, woven into their schedules. A survey by skincare brand Pai, involving 1,500 children aged 9 to 12, found that nearly half use multiple products weekly. Of these, half claim they apply them to address perceived skin imperfections, highlighting the pressure to maintain an ideal appearance.

From Obsession to Identity

Brooke Erin Duffy, an associate professor and social media researcher at Cornell University, points to a significant shift in marketing strategies. “Women in their 30s and 40s have long been targeted by skincare companies, told that ageing is a problem and sold solutions,” she observed. “But now, girls as young as 8 or 9 are facing the same pressure.” This new trend is not just about beauty—it’s about self-image and validation. The rise of platforms like TikTok has amplified this movement, turning skincare into a performance art. Young creators often blend tutorials with storytelling, making their routines feel both informative and entertaining.

Professor Giovanni Damiani, a dermatologist from the University of Milan, has noticed this change in his practice. Concerned by the obsession of his younger patients, he initiated a study involving 55 children aged 8 to 14. The results suggest that early exposure to skincare can lead to an unhealthy fixation on perfection. “Cosmeticorexia” has emerged as a term to describe this condition, characterised by an excessive reliance on cosmetics to achieve flawless skin. It’s a blend of the eating disorder and the pursuit of beauty, where appearance becomes central to self-worth.

“This is a marked shift,” Duffy added. “The messaging is now directed at girls who are still growing, shaping their understanding of beauty and body image.”

The industry’s growth is staggering. Skincare for children is now a multi-billion-pound market, expanding rapidly as more young creators enter the space. With influencers and brands collaborating to create engaging content, the lines between fun and pressure blur. Are these routines harmless, or do they condition girls to believe their natural appearance is insufficient? As the market continues to evolve, questions arise about the long-term impact on self-esteem and the way girls perceive their own looks.

Ellie-May’s story is emblematic of a larger movement. Her early start, combined with the family’s success, illustrates how social media can turn childhood hobbies into professional ventures. Yet, it also raises concerns about the commercialisation of beauty at a young age. The same products that promise glowing skin can instill a sense of inadequacy, pushing girls to prioritise cosmetics over natural features. This is not just about skincare—it’s about the cultural shift that equates youth with perfection and labels imperfections as flaws to be corrected.

As the industry booms, so does the need for awareness. Parents and educators must navigate this landscape, ensuring that children understand the difference between skincare and self-image. The question remains: Will these young creators continue to thrive in a world that celebrates their dedication, or will they internalise the belief that flawless skin is the ultimate goal? The answer may lie in the balance between innovation and mindfulness, as the future of beauty is shaped by the hands of today’s young influencers.

With each passing year, the skincare rabbit hole deepens. What began as a personal passion for Ellie-May has grown into a global phenomenon, driven by the power of social media. As more girls join this movement, the industry’s influence expands, raising the stakes for both creators and consumers. The term “cosmeticorexia” serves as a reminder that the pursuit of beauty, when taken to extremes, can become a compulsion. It’s a call to examine how the beauty standards of today are shaping the next generation, both in terms of their routines and their self-perception.