I Led Hikers Up an Indonesian Volcano – and Then It Erupted

I led hikers up an Indonesian – On a fateful day in North Maluku, an Indonesian guide named Reza Selang found himself in the midst of a natural disaster that claimed three lives. The eruption of Mount Dukono, a volcano known for its frequent activity, caught his group of hikers off guard, leaving them in a state of chaos. Reza, who operates a tour company in the region, shared his harrowing experience with the BBC, revealing how the event unfolded with terrifying suddenness.

A Day That Changed Everything

The incident occurred on Friday, when Reza guided a group of 20 climbers to the summit of the active volcano. Despite warnings from local authorities, the group proceeded with their hike, unaware of the imminent danger. Reza described the moment the eruption began, saying, “Within one minute there were two eruptions. The first eruption only released smoke. Maybe around 15 or 20 seconds later, the second eruption happened and it released all the [volcanic] material.”

“There are no words. Until now I still feel torn apart, I still can’t believe it… right now I am deeply devastated,” Reza told the BBC over the phone on Monday.

During the ascent, Reza had relied on his drone camera to monitor the group’s progress. He had observed calm conditions, with no signs of volcanic activity, and had reassured the hikers that they could reach the crater safely. However, the tranquility was short-lived. At 07:40 local time, Reza noticed a shift in the volcano’s behavior, prompting him to fly his drone closer to the summit. Just one minute later, the ground trembled violently, and the eruption began.

The Volcano’s Unpredictable Nature

Mount Dukono, located on Halmahera island, has been active for over 200 days since late March. Indonesian authorities have long warned of its volatility, issuing a climbing ban since April 17th to ensure visitor safety. This ban included a 4km exclusion zone around the crater, with signs and social media alerts to inform the public of the risks. Reza, however, claimed he was not fully aware of these restrictions when he joined the expedition.

“There were no visible signs of volcanic activity, there was no smoke either,” he said, describing the drone footage that showed a seemingly peaceful landscape before the disaster struck. The group had been told to proceed cautiously, with instructions to descend promptly after reaching the crater. Reza, who stayed below with part of the team, believed the conditions were safe enough for the climb. Yet, the volcano’s sudden fury proved otherwise.

A Tragic Escape

As the eruption began, the hikers scattered, racing down the mountain in a desperate attempt to survive. Reza’s drone captured the chaos, showing a Singaporean hiker, Shahin Muhrez bin Abdul Hamid, lying near the crater. Without hesitation, he rushed to rescue the man, while Timothy Heng, the Singaporean organizer of the trip, also turned back. Together, they navigated the treacherous path, only to face a new threat: a massive rock, about 2 meters wide, launched from the crater and bouncing toward them.

“Timothy turned back, and in only a split second he immediately hugged Shahin,” recalled Reza. “Rocks were falling to our left and right.”

The rock struck Heng and Shahin, crushing them instantly. Reza, frozen in disbelief, watched as the two climbers were buried beneath the debris. “I just stayed still. Maybe for about one minute,” he said, struggling to process the scene. When he finally moved, he sprinted down the slope, leaving the crater behind as the rescue team worked to recover the bodies.

Aftermath and Investigation

By Saturday, Angel Krishela Pradita, the Indonesian hiker who had survived, was found near the summit, while the remains of Heng and Shahin were retrieved on Sunday. In a video shared with the BBC, rescue workers were shown carefully excavating a thick layer of black volcanic ash to uncover bone fragments. The surviving hikers were taken to a nearby hospital for treatment, and the other Singaporean participants have since returned home.

Following the incident, authorities have taken decisive action, permanently closing all access points to Mount Dukono. They have emphasized that any future violations of the climbing ban will result in penalties, highlighting the need for stricter adherence to safety protocols. Meanwhile, an investigation is underway to determine whether negligence by Reza’s tour company or the hikers themselves contributed to the tragedy.

Reza’s Response and the Broader Impact

Reza, who has since been questioned by local police, handed over his drone footage as evidence. In a statement, North Halmahera Police acknowledged the incident and hinted at “possible negligence by tourism operators or individuals.” The guide expressed his regret, stating that he had trusted the safety of the area, relying on the villagers he employs to escort the group. These locals, he claimed, had not informed him of the prohibition.

The eruption serves as a stark reminder of the volcano’s unpredictable nature, which has made it a popular destination for adventurers despite the risks. Reza, who has guided hikers to Dukono and other nearby peaks, said the group had been enthusiastic about the climb, unaware of the potential for disaster. “We thought we were prepared. We didn’t expect it to happen so suddenly,” he reflected.

A Call for Improved Safety Measures

Authorities have since reinforced their warnings, urging tourists to heed the restrictions and prioritize safety. The closure of Mount Dukono’s trails has disrupted the local tourism industry, which has relied heavily on such expeditions. Reza’s tour company, which had previously operated without major incidents, now faces scrutiny over its risk management practices.

Reza’s account of the event has sparked discussions about the balance between adventure tourism and safety. While the volcano’s frequent eruptions are well-documented, the lack of clear communication to the hikers raises questions about how effectively warnings are being conveyed. The incident has also highlighted the role of technology, such as drones, in monitoring volcanic activity and providing real-time data to climbers.

As the investigation continues, the focus remains on understanding the sequence of events that led to the tragedy. Reza’s decision to stay behind to assist in the search for Angel’s body, along with the efforts of rescue teams, underscores the community’s resilience in the face of natural disasters. However, the loss of three lives has left a lasting impact, prompting a reevaluation of safety standards for volcanic climbs in the region.

What’s Next for the Victims and the Community

The families of the victims have been left to grapple with their grief, while the local community mourns the loss of two Singaporeans and one Indonesian hiker. The surviving climbers, though shaken, have been able to recover from their injuries. For Reza, the experience has been a profound lesson in the power of nature and the importance of vigilance. “I still feel the ground shaking beneath me,” he said, “and I wonder if we could have been more prepared.”

Mount Dukono’s eruption has also drawn attention to the broader challenges of managing volcanic tourism in Indonesia. With over 150 active volcanoes in the country, balancing economic benefits with safety remains a critical concern. The incident on Friday serves as a cautionary tale, reminding visitors and operators alike that even the most prepared plans can be upended by nature’s unpredictability.

As the mountain stands silent once more, its presence looms as a powerful symbol of both beauty and danger. Reza’s story, now etched into the annals of recent volcanic history, will likely influence future expeditions, ensuring that lessons are learned and precautions are taken. For now, the focus is on recovery, with authorities working to prevent similar tragedies from occurring again.