Chippies sell catfish as ‘traditional fish supper’

Chippies sell catfish as traditional fish – Recent findings by the BBC reveal that some chip shops in the North West are mislabeling catfish as ‘traditional fish and chips’ to cut costs. This practice, which involves substituting cheaper fish for more expensive species, has been identified in multiple cases. However, detecting such mislabeling remains challenging, as investigations often rely on intelligence-based methods and DNA testing, which can be expensive and time-consuming.

Cost-Effective Substitution

Catfish, a species commonly farmed in Southeast Asia, is significantly less costly than traditional fish like cod or haddock. While cod and haddock typically retail for around £15 per kilogram, catfish is available for approximately £3.40 wholesale. This price disparity has led some businesses to label catfish as ‘traditional’ to attract customers without increasing prices. The BBC’s investigation uncovered instances of this substitution in the region, with the owner of a Liverpool chip shop raising concerns about the deceptive practice.

Customer Confusion and Online Feedback

Consumers often express confusion when they discover the true identity of the fish they purchase. The BBC analyzed dozens of online reviews, many of which highlighted dissatisfaction with the species served. Comments such as “Not cod or haddock, just some cheap white fish” and “I didn’t know what type of fish it was” were common. These findings prompted the BBC to examine 10 chip shops, five in Liverpool and five in Manchester, as part of a sample test. The results revealed that three establishments listed cod, four listed haddock, and three simply used the term ‘fish’ on their menus.

Labeling Issues and Legal Obligations

When asked, businesses are legally required to disclose the species of fish they serve. However, three of the sampled shops described their offerings as ‘normal fish’ or ‘white fish’ without specifying the exact type. In one case, a server pointed to a sign stating ‘traditional fish and chips’ to justify the substitution. DNA testing at Liverpool John Moores University confirmed that all three takeaway outlets had sold catfish, with Professor Stefano Mariani and his colleague Catherine Perfect identifying the species as pangasius, also known as river cobbler, a tropical freshwater catfish.

Expert Insights on Consumer Perception

Professor Stefano Mariani emphasized that the level of catfish substitution observed is notable. “In my experience with fish and chips, three out of 10 is quite a lot—I don’t recall seeing this level of catfish before,” he noted. He explained that while catfish is safe to eat, the substitution can mislead customers who expect marine species like cod or haddock. “It’s very difficult for the average person to distinguish between different fillets without specialized knowledge,” Mariani added, highlighting the challenge of identifying the fish on sight.

Local Authority Responses

The National Trading Standards Institute acknowledged that mislabeling is not a widespread issue but noted the presence of unscrupulous businesses. Salford Council, for example, reported that it had warned a trader after discovering a different fish species being sold as cod. A spokesman for the council stated, “We have not received any recent complaints but would urge people to share information about concerns in Salford so we can review and assess them.” However, the BBC found that 10 local authorities in the North West did not respond to inquiries, and 11 were either unaware of the issue or had no ongoing investigations.

Industry Perspective and Recommendations

Andrew Cook, president of the National Federation of Fish Friers, shared his views on the issue. A Lancashire-based chip shop owner with nearly 30 years of experience in the trade, Cook said, “I was only talking to someone the other day who ordered fish and chips in a pub and thought it was pangasius. When he asked about it, they confirmed it was.” He argued that labeling farmed catfish as ‘white fish’ is acceptable, but selling it at cod prices without disclosure creates a problem. “Shops need to be careful about doing that,” he warned, urging transparency in the industry.

Comparisons to Historical Food Scandals

Similar to the 2013 horsemeat scandal, the substitution of catfish for traditional fish does not pose a health risk. However, it raises concerns about consumer deception. While the fish itself is safe, the lack of clear labeling can undermine trust in the product. Cook emphasized that most customers expect marine fish when ordering ‘fish and chips,’ and the substitution may feel like a betrayal of tradition. “It’s about expectations,” he said, adding that businesses should ensure their menus reflect the actual ingredients.

Implications for the Industry

The issue of mislabeling has broader implications for the fish and chip industry. The Food Standards Agency (FSA) noted that local authorities would likely handle isolated cases of substitution. Yet, the BBC’s findings suggest that this problem is not isolated and requires more attention. With catfish being a popular and affordable option, the industry must balance cost-efficiency with consumer transparency. Cook’s call for clearer labeling highlights the need for businesses to educate customers about the differences between farmed and wild-caught fish.

Consumer Awareness and Action

Consumers play a critical role in identifying and reporting mislabeling. While the average person may struggle to differentiate between cod and catfish, raising awareness through education and scrutiny can help. The BBC’s investigation underscores the importance of transparency in the food industry, particularly in the context of traditional dishes. As the demand for affordable options grows, businesses must ensure that their marketing aligns with the actual ingredients they serve. This approach not only preserves consumer trust but also supports informed decision-making in an industry that has long relied on reputation and tradition.

Future Steps and Industry Accountability

Experts and regulators are pushing for stricter measures to prevent mislabeling. The FSA and local authorities are urged to take proactive steps, especially as the issue gains attention. With more consumers questioning the species of fish they purchase, the pressure on chip shops to be honest about their offerings is increasing. Mariani’s research provides a clear framework for identifying substitutions, but widespread implementation remains a challenge. The BBC’s findings serve as a reminder that even in a small, traditional industry, modern practices like cost-cutting can lead to significant consumer concerns. As the debate continues, the focus will likely shift toward ensuring that ‘traditional’ labels reflect the true nature of the product, preserving both the heritage of fish and chips and the integrity of the market.