Dressed for succession: What Kim Ju Ae’s outfits tell us about North Korea

Dressed for succession – North Korea’s political landscape has long been shaped by the careful curation of public image, and the young daughter of its leader, Kim Jong Un, is no exception. In 2023, a video released by the state-run Korean Central News Agency showed Kim Ju Ae, now 13, standing beside her father in front of an intercontinental ballistic missile. She wore a black padded jacket, later confirmed to be a $1,900 purchase from the French luxury brand Christian Dior. This moment marked another step in the careful orchestration of her public persona, which has evolved significantly since her first appearance in state media in November 2022.

From casual to calculated: Ju Ae’s style evolution

At her initial debut, Ju Ae was depicted in a simple yet polished outfit: black trousers and a white padded jacket, her long hair tied back. The image, shared by North Korean state media, suggested a deliberate effort to present her as a symbol of the regime’s future. While she was reported to be just nine at the time, her attire immediately projected authority. Since then, her fashion has grown more deliberate, blending elegance with a touch of modernity. Analysts note that these changes are not incidental but part of a broader strategy to prepare her for leadership.

South Korea’s National Security Agency has long speculated that Kim Jong Un is grooming his daughter to succeed him. The agency’s assessment is based on Ju Ae’s increasing visibility in public events, from missile launches to military parades, and even overseas trips. Her presence in these settings has been strategic, often mirroring her father’s attire or adopting styles that align with the regime’s narrative of continuity. This deliberate alignment is a hallmark of North Korea’s propaganda tactics, designed to reinforce the perception of legitimacy.

Image replication and the power of appearance

Kim Jong Un’s leadership has been closely tied to his ability to project the image of his grandfather, Kim Il Sung. As the founder of North Korea, Kim Il Sung is revered as a near-mythical figure, and his likeness has been used to legitimize the Kim dynasty’s rule. This pattern of “image replication” is not new; it has been a tool for North Korean leaders to ensure their authority is unquestioned. Kim Jong Un, who ascended to power in 2011, initially wore the same black leather jackets and trench coats as his grandfather, blending into the regime’s aesthetic to gain public trust.

Analysts argue that this practice extends to Ju Ae. Her growing prominence is accompanied by a deliberate effort to create a mature image, despite her youth. Cheong Seong-chang, deputy director of the Sejong Institute, explains that the Propaganda and Agitation Department—North Korea’s primary tool for shaping public perception—has been instrumental in this process. “By dressing Ju Ae in formal suits and skirts similar to those of her mother, Ri Sol Ju, the regime is masking her age and projecting an air of experience,” he tells BBC Korean. The goal is to transform her from a child into a figure of political power.

Western touches and status symbolism

While Ju Ae’s attire often reflects the traditional North Korean aesthetic, there are notable exceptions. These include Western-style clothing, such as leather jackets and fur coats, which are considered rare and valuable in the country. Cheong highlights that such choices are not just about fashion but about status. “Leather jackets and fur coats are not common among ordinary North Koreans. They are symbols of privilege,” he says. The use of these items, particularly in public appearances, underscores Ju Ae’s elevated position within the hierarchy of the regime.

One such instance occurred in 2023 when Ju Ae was photographed wearing a black padded jacket from Christian Dior. The jacket, a high-end purchase, was carefully selected to align with the regime’s goal of presenting a modern, powerful image. This decision is part of a broader effort to differentiate Ju Ae from the general population, who are restricted in their access to external culture. The Reactionary Ideology and Culture Rejection Act, enacted in 2020, aims to limit the influence of foreign styles, yet Ju Ae’s wardrobe seems to defy these constraints. Her choices are designed to signal her unique status, both as the daughter of the leader and as a potential heir.

Her fashion has also taken on a more symbolic role. In 2024, Ju Ae was seen wearing a partially see-through blouse during the completion ceremony of a residential area in Pyongyang. This garment, which revealed her arms, marked a shift toward Western influences and a more relaxed approach to dress. The act was followed by a state directive warning citizens about the significance of such styles, suggesting that the regime is using Ju Ae as a model for the future. The message is clear: her attire is not just about aesthetics but about reinforcing the idea that she belongs to a different class.

Propaganda as a tool for power

North Korea’s Propaganda and Agitation Department has long been responsible for shaping narratives around the Kim family. Ju Ae’s wardrobe is no different, with every outfit serving a purpose. Her “rooster” hairstyle, for example, has been interpreted as a sign of her readiness to lead. Analysts believe it reflects the boldness and confidence associated with the Kim dynasty, while her choice of formal wear reinforces her connection to the elite. This careful curation of appearance is designed to make her seem both relatable and authoritative, a balance essential for a future leader.

Kim Jong Un’s own fashion choices have always been a subject of scrutiny. His preference for black leather jackets and trench coats has been mirrored by Ju Ae, creating a visual link between them. This is not merely coincidence; it is a calculated effort to associate her with the established authority of her father. By aligning their styles, the regime ensures that Ju Ae’s image is reinforced as part of the Kim family’s legacy. “The idea is to make her appear as if she has always belonged to the ruling class,” says Cheong. This is particularly important given the age of the young leader. “Her youth could be seen as a weakness, but the regime is using her appearance to counter that perception.”

While the general population faces strict controls over their clothing, Ju Ae’s wardrobe is a reflection of the regime’s ability to shape public perception. Her fashion choices are part of a larger strategy to transition power smoothly, ensuring that her image is as polished as her father’s. This process, which began in 2022, has continued with increasing intensity. As she grows older, her style is becoming more refined, with each detail chosen to signal her readiness for leadership. The result is a young woman who appears both familiar and extraordinary, a product of North Korea’s enduring tradition of image replication.

“The Propaganda and Agitation Department played a significantly important role in orchestrating a series of processes that naturally transferred respect for Kim Il Sung to Kim Jong Un,” Cheong says. “It is said that North Korean residents were surprised when Kim Jong Un first appeared. But the reason South Korean experts were also surprised is that the first glimpse of Kim Jong Un looked so much like the young Kim Il Sung.”

Ju Ae’s journey from a child in a simple outfit to a figure in luxury fashion is a microcosm of North Korea’s approach to succession. Every detail of her appearance is part of a carefully crafted narrative, designed to prepare her for the role of leader. As the regime continues to project her as the next generation of power, her clothing becomes a silent but powerful statement about her place in the political hierarchy. The message is unambiguous: North Korea is not just preparing for the future—it is ensuring that the image of its leadership is as strong as ever.