East Africa’s Battle Against Used Clothing Imports

East Africa wants to curb imports – Despite the downpours that turned parts of Gikomba into a swampy maze, the market in Nairobi remains a bustling hub of commerce. Shoppers, many equipped with waterproof footwear, navigated the saturated pathways in search of second-hand garments, which are the market’s defining feature. The influx of used clothing from the United States, Europe, and China continues to challenge the East African Community’s (EAC) aspirations for a vibrant local fashion sector. How can nations in the region cultivate a sustainable industry when the market is flooded with inexpensive, second-hand clothing?

Zia Bett, the founder of Kenya’s Zia Africa brand, voices frustration over the situation. “We’re competing with second-hand clothing, but we can’t compete on price,” she explains to the BBC. Similar concerns are echoed by Elizabeth Paul, who runs Kuya Creations in Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. “In my shop, a dress costs at least 50,000 Tanzanian shillings. People say, ‘For that price, I could buy ten second-hand ones,’ so they opt for the cheaper choice,” Paul notes. These sentiments highlight the tension between local producers and the affordability that used clothing offers to consumers.

Historically, the EAC sought to address this issue by proposing a ban on second-hand imports. A decade ago, the region aimed to restrict the flow of used garments, which had been piling up in markets like Gikomba for years. However, the plan faced resistance from the United States, which exerted pressure to prevent the measure. The compromise led to the abandonment of the ban, but the debate has reignited. Uganda, which once had a president who criticized the importation of second-hand clothes as coming from “white dead people,” has taken a new stance by introducing a 30% environmental tax on used clothing. The move is intended to both protect the environment and stimulate domestic manufacturing.

Kenya, meanwhile, attempted a different approach. The country initially proposed a revised tax structure for used clothing, claiming it would streamline processes for importers. But the plan quickly drew criticism from Kenyans who feared it would raise prices and harm consumers. As a result, the proposal was removed from the Finance Bill. Kenya already imposes a 30% customs duty on used clothing imports, which is higher than the 5% shipping cost for new garments. This creates an economic incentive for local producers to compete with the second-hand market, though the effectiveness of the policy remains debated.

The used clothing trade, known locally as “mitumba,” has long been a cornerstone of East Africa’s economy. According to the Observatory of Economic Complexity (OEC), Kenya leads Africa in importing second-hand garments, with nearly 180,000 tonnes arriving in 2022 alone. This represents a 76% surge compared to 2013, as per UN trade data. In Uganda, the demand for mitumba is particularly high, surpassing both new imports and locally made clothing. A 2024 report by the government-funded Economic Policy Research Centre underscores this trend, showing mitumba as the most popular clothing category among Ugandans.

Uganda’s new 30% tax on mitumba imports adds to the existing 35% import duty and 18% VAT. The government argues that the levy will reduce environmental harm caused by textile waste and encourage the production of locally made clothing. Yet, traders like Aaron Sekky, a mitumba dealer in Uganda, oppose the measure. “This tax undermines the free economy,” he tells the BBC. “The second-hand trade supports so many people—how can you justify cutting it off?” His argument is shared by others in the sector, who point to the extensive supply chain that relies on used clothing. This network includes importers, wholesalers, tailors who repair damaged garments, and vendors selling refreshments at the markets.

While the exact number of workers employed in the industry is unclear, research commissioned by the Mitumba Consortium Association of Kenya (MCAK) estimates that up to 4.9 million people across East Africa depend on the trade for their livelihoods. This figure highlights the industry’s role in providing income for communities, particularly in rural areas where formal employment opportunities are scarce. However, critics argue that these jobs are often low-skilled and offer limited growth potential. Dr. Andrew Brooks, a King’s College London academic and author of *Clothing Poverty: The Hidden World of Fast Fashion and Second-hand Clothes*, contends that the retail aspect of mitumba trade is “the most limited form of job creation” in the fashion sector. “If you’re only importing and selling, you’re not significantly contributing to your nation’s economy,” he asserts.

Lisa Kibutu, a board member of Kenya’s Fashion Council, acknowledges the value of the second-hand trade but notes its limitations. “Many jobs in mitumba are hand-to-mouth, offering little room for advancement,” she says. Yet she also emphasizes that the trade has transformed the region’s fashion landscape. “When I left Kenya in the 1980s, poor families often went without clothing. Today, even the most disadvantaged have access to decent apparel,” Kibutu explains. Her perspective underscores the cultural and economic significance of used clothing in East Africa, where it has become a symbol of both survival and style.

The debate over mitumba imports reflects a broader struggle between tradition and modernization. While the EAC seeks to protect its textile industry, the used clothing trade continues to thrive, driven by consumer demand and the affordability it provides. For many, the trade is not just an economic necessity but also a lifestyle choice. Yet, as environmental and industrial concerns grow, the question remains: can East Africa balance the needs of its people with the goals of its regional economic strategy?

Implications for the Local Economy

Supporters of the mitumba trade argue that its impact on employment cannot be overlooked. The industry provides work for millions, from those who source garments to those who resell them. However, critics like Brooks maintain that the sector’s contribution to economic growth is minimal compared to manufacturing or other industries. “Importing and retailing alone don’t create the same ripple effects as producing and distributing goods,” he says. The challenge lies in finding a middle ground that supports both local producers and the millions of people who rely on used clothing for daily sustenance.

As the EAC continues to grapple with this issue, the outcome will likely shape the region’s future in fashion. Whether the policies aimed at curbing imports succeed or not, the used clothing trade remains a resilient and deeply embedded part of East Africa’s socio-economic fabric. Its survival hinges on the ability of regional leaders to address both environmental concerns and the livelihoods of those who depend on it. For now, the rain may continue to soak the markets, but the demand for second-hand clothes shows no sign of waning.